The OleoCraft range is a group of oil structuring polymers that create impressive films on the skin, lip and eyelash delivering water and wear resistance benefits across colour cosmetic and sun care applications. The OleoCraft polymers are low colour and low odour but high performance, proven to form crystal clear gels. The OleoCraft polymers create novel formats, from eye-catching clear sticks and balms to sprayable gels and emulsions with real consumer benefits.
The OleoCraft polymers are able to create films on the skin. Acting on top of the epidermis to provide a protective layer, their high molecular weight enables the polymers to stay on the surface of the skin, forming a cohesive non-water soluble film. The OleoCraft polymers can be incorporated into the oil, aqueous or ethanol continuous phase or into the oil or aqueous phase of an emulsion.
OleoCraft Polymers are excellent in improving wear resistance in foundations, lipsticks and mascaras. They have also been shown to boost SPF of sunscreen products.
Usage: Typically 1% (jelly like) to 30% (wax like) and the gels formed are thermo-reversible meaning they will return to their liquid state once heat is applied and conversely will thicken when cooled. Most natural vegetable oils will require the addition of Castor oil to form a gel.
OleoCraft MP-32 will dissolve in fluid when heated at or near to 99⁰C however shear can reduce the temperature required. The gelling point will vary depending upon the oil used, for Castor Oil it is 55⁰C.
Check out this fantastic instructional video for creating water in oil emulsions, courtesy of Belinda Carli - Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science