Kawakawa for Skin: Benefits, Uses & How to Use It
If you've spent any time in NZ's natural skincare world, you'll have come across kawakawa. It's in balms, oils, cleansers and salves right across the country — and for good reason. This heart-shaped native leaf has one of the deepest histories of any plant in Aotearoa, and modern research is starting to back up what Māori have known for generations. Here's what kawakawa actually is, what the science says, and how to use it well in your own DIY skincare.
What is Kawakawa?
Kawakawa (Macropiper excelsum, also known as Piper excelsum or NZ Pepper Tree) is a native shrub found in lowland forests and coastal areas throughout Aotearoa. It's easy to identify by its glossy, heart-shaped leaves — often peppered with small holes left by the native kawakawa looper caterpillar, which many consider a sign of a healthy, unsprayed plant.
Kawakawa holds a significant place in rongoā Māori (traditional Māori healing), where it has long been used topically and as a tea for a wide range of everyday complaints — from cuts, bruises and skin irritation to digestive discomfort. It's considered one of the most important native plants in traditional New Zealand herbal medicine, and that knowledge is the foundation for how the plant is used in skincare today.
What the Research Says
Researchers at the University of Auckland have identified dozens of biologically active compounds in kawakawa leaf, including lignans (excelsin, diayangambin), amides (piperine, pellitorine), and the phenylpropanoids myristicin and elemicin — the two compounds most associated with kawakawa's traditional anti-inflammatory reputation.
A few things worth knowing about where the science currently stands:
- Laboratory (in vitro) studies on kawakawa leaf extract have shown anti-inflammatory activity, including inhibition of inflammatory markers in cell models.
- A 2022 human clinical trial published in Nutrients looked at kawakawa tea and found it had measurable effects on postprandial (after-eating) blood sugar and insulin response — the first published human intervention study on kawakawa.
- A more recent study analysing gene expression in humans after kawakawa intake found reduced expression of several inflammation-related markers, supporting the plant's traditional anti-inflammatory reputation — though the researchers were clear that dedicated human studies on topical skin use specifically are still lacking.
In short: the phytochemistry is well documented, early human research is promising, and traditional use is long-standing and well-recorded — but as with most botanical ingredients, robust clinical trials on topical skin outcomes specifically are still an emerging area. We'd rather tell you that plainly than overstate it.
Traditional & Reported Uses for Skin
In rongoā Māori and in contemporary natural skincare, kawakawa is most commonly reached for topically to help soothe:
- Dry, irritated or easily-reactive skin
- Minor cuts, grazes and bruising
- Insect bites and mild skin irritation
- General everyday skin discomfort
It's a genuinely gentle, well-tolerated botanical, which is part of why it's become such a staple in New Zealand-made balms — including several products designed for sensitive skin. As always, if you have a diagnosed skin condition, it's worth chatting to your GP or dermatologist about your skincare routine alongside anything botanical you're using.
How to Use Kawakawa in Your Formulations
Kawakawa is flexible to work with and available from PureNature in a few different forms, depending on what you're making.
Kawakawa Infused Oil
Our Kawakawa Infused Oil is a 1:10 infusion of kawakawa leaf in sweet almond oil, made locally in Mangawhai. It's an easy way to bring kawakawa's oil-soluble compounds into balms, salves and body oils without any extra steps.
Usage rate: Works well at 30–50% of your total oil phase in a balm recipe, blended with complementary oils. Using our Basic Balm Recipe as a base, try 40g Kawakawa Infused Oil to 38g of a second oil like Avocado, Hemp Seed or Calendula Infused Oil.
Kawakawa Dried Herb
Prefer to make your own infusion? Our Kawakawa Dried Herb is sustainably wild-harvested from the East Cape. Pack a jar loosely with the dried leaf, cover with a carrier oil of your choice (sunflower, sweet almond or grapeseed all work well), and let it infuse for 2–4 weeks in a cool, dark spot, shaking occasionally.
It also makes a pleasant, caffeine-free herbal tea — use ¼–½ tsp per cup, and it pairs particularly well with fresh ginger.
PlantæDerMX® Kawakawa Leaf Extract
For water-based formulations like toners, serums and moisturisers, our Kawakawa Leaf Extract (made by Organic Bioactives) is a glycerine-based, water-soluble option. Typical use rate is 1–5% in the water phase.
Kawakawa Hydrosol
Our Kawakawa Hydrosol is made in NZ and carries the water-soluble compounds from the leaf, along with a trace of residual essential oil left from processing. It comes pre-preserved so it's ready to use straight from the bottle.
Usage rate: Can be used at up to 100% in the water phase of toners and mists, or blended with other hydrosols. Also works well as the water phase in a lightweight lotion or gel.
Make Your Own Kawakawa Balm Kit
New to DIY, or want an easy gift idea? Our Make Your Own Kawakawa Balm Kit comes with everything pre-measured so you can go from zero to finished balm in one sitting.
DIY Recipes Featuring Kawakawa
- NZ Hemp Seed Face Serum — a light, fast-absorbing facial oil featuring Kawakawa Infused Oil alongside Hemp Seed and Kiwifruit Seed Oils, all grown and made in NZ
- Basic Balm Recipe — use as your base and swap in Kawakawa Infused Oil
PureNature's Kawakawa Range
- Kawakawa Infused Oil — made locally and sustainably in Mangawhai
- Kawakawa Dried Herb — sustainably wild-crafted in the East Cape
- PlantæDerMX® Kawakawa Leaf Extract — water-soluble, made by Organic Bioactives
- OceanDerMX Calm & Soothe — another water-soluble option from Organic Bioactives
- Kawakawa Hydrosol — made in NZ, ready-to-use in toners, mists and the water phase of lotions
- Make Your Own Kawakawa Balm Kit — everything you need to make your first batch
All products are intended for external use only.
Happy making!
Resources
- PubMed — Anti-inflammatory effects of kawakawa: an integrative mRNA-miRNA approach
- Nutrients (2022) — Acute Effects of Kawakawa Intake on Postprandial Glycemic and Insulinaemic Response
